Mike McCall, Freelance
Published: Saturday, October 13
Not content to rest with the delightful regionally inspired cuisine of Normand's, restauranteur Normand Campbell and chef Cui Cooch have revived a formerly flagging eatery rechristening it Glenora Bistro. The lovely dining room is decorated with oil paintings, and pleasantly warm diffused light illuminates the elegant wooden furniture both day and night.
The service is affable, although there were instances where it was evident that this is a new restaurant. Still, through two visits both servers were quite helpful, answering questions thoroughly and offering a taste of wine, so I could make sure it would suit my meal before ordering. The host made sure my lady friend and I were seated at the most romantic table, and seemed to be genuinely interested that everyone in the restaurant was satisfied.
In contrast to Normand's, the food is generally light here with an emphasis on seafood and chicken. There are numerous daily specials that ensure the menu always varies, including daily quiche and soup at lunch, a daily salad, and both fish and meat entrees. The host was also pleased to inform us that despite what is indicated on the menu, every one of their 30 or so wines is available by the glass. Despite a deceptively short menu, Glenora Bistro offers plenty to repeat visitors. Mussels with Pernod cream sauce were no surprise on the menu, since Normand has favoured them for years at his other restaurant. The serving was generous enough of an appetizer for two to share, though ardent mussel lovers may be disinclined to share. The main flavour was that of the sea, with the anise taking a supporting role behind the meaty flavour the mussels imbued the sauce with.
The escargot was a phenomenal starter. The texture was not the rubbery mess some others pass off as exotic, but instead was only a little firmer than aspic, almost like a succulent scallop with an earthy flavour. As with the mussels the sauce was rich without being heavy, a mixture of tomatoes, garlic and onions rounding it out and rendering it completely savoury. The five-herb mixture on top -- oregano, rosemary, tarragon, basil, and thyme -- was an enigmatic component that transformed the taste brilliantly with every bite.
Though the menu is mostly lighter dishes, this is Alberta, and red-meat lovers are not neglected. Tempted though we were by coq au vin blanc and the daily special of a trio of salmon, halibut and prawns, for dinner my companion decided on the petit filet with Café de Paris butter. Flavoured mostly with parsley, but also with other herbs and spices, the butter added a dimension of flavour to the perfectly done and tender steak, as well as giving it a more attractive appearance than the average seared chop.
The sides were the same on both plates, a miscellany of steamed fall vegetables: corn, broccoli, squash, cauliflower, carrot, and zucchini. I felt they were all underseasoned, though given the character of the menu this may be a nod to health rather than a disregard for flavour. Also dressing the plate was a side of sliced and fried potatoes, akin to hashbrowns and recognizable from our breakfast visit. They were slightly soggy (likely from being cooked at too low of heat), but prepared as they were with some mildly hot peppers meant they weren't totally flavourless. I had the lamb shank, deliciously slow-cooked on the bone to the point of almost melting off of it. The sauce was abundant, thick, and hearty, and had an intense meaty flavour from the braising liquid. It was accentuated by the faint taste of berries and had a slightly sweet and sour tang to it.
The dessert menu shows a love of strawberries, and again for variety they offer a crepe with the fruit of the day. I chose the creme caramel. The custard had a faint mocha flavour and a rum- based sauce of irresistible sweetness. My companion had the strawberries flambe, a delicious and faintly alcoholic sundae with luscious real vanilla bean ice cream.
I also tried lunch here and it is just as good, even offering all-day breakfast. The soup in particular was excellent. With its simple and health-conscious fare, and flexible menu, Glenora Bistro is a success and a welcome addition to Edmonton's dining scene.
10139 124 Street
Edmonton, Alberta
T5N 1P5
(780)482-3531
At present reservations are only accepted for parties of 6 or more for the current day.